Nicosia is the last divided capital in Europe, a city where a United Nations buffer zone runs through the middle of streets that were once ordinary neighborhoods. The division is so old now that younger Cypriots treat it as geography rather than wound, which is either resilience or forgetting depending on who is asked.
Cyprus joined the European Union in 2004 and spent the following decade learning what membership meant in practice — which directives applied, which exemptions could be negotiated, which single-market obligations arrived with consequences attached. The financial crisis of 2012 and 2013, when Cypriot banks required a bailout that included depositor haircuts unprecedented in the eurozone, produced a reckoning with the offshore financial services model the island had built since the 1980s. What survived that reckoning, and what replaced what didn't, shaped the contemporary Cypriot economy in ways that intersect with the broader story of how small…
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